There are many cities that consider themselves the gourmet capital of the world. Generally it's the city with the money to attract the country's best chefs, with the clientele to pay the tab at the most outstanding restaurants. If there are no beaches or mountains to play on, people will often amuse themselves by eating out.
On holiday or even by preference people dress up for dinner and usually go out around 9 or 10pm at the earliest. It's becoming more common for restaurants to accept reservations, but many still don't. If waiting for a table drives you to distraction, better to arrive unfashionably early at 8pm.
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